I had dinner at Lucio’s in Sydney earlier this year and was charmed by Lucio himself, of course, and entranced by the food. This is an extensive collection of pasta recipes – dried, fresh, filled and baked. There is a wonderful chapter on soups and broths – the pasta in broth with meatballs is an inspired incantation of a childhood favourite.

At the beginning of each recipe there is an explanation of the origins and etymology of each variety of pasta, but the recipes themselves are exquisite. They manage to successfully bridge that fine line between tradition and innovation: rabbit cannelloni with Jerusalem artichoke sauce or the luxurious buckwheat tagliatelle with oysters. Beautiful photographs of the dishes (the beetroot ravioli is a masterpiece) are complemented by original artworks by Luke Sciberras.

Justine Douglas is the Manager of Readings Port Melbourne.

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