Elvis Costello has been trying to be amused rather than disgusted for rather a long time now – certainly since his first record. And since then, the more gloriously he fails in that objective, the better his records have been. For all the cod-classicism and jazzzzzz and songsmith bacharachannalia, it’s the popping blister and righteous ire that informs his best work. Momofuku has all that, and can stand alongside Blood and Chocolate and All This Useless Beauty as proof positive that a little negativity never hurt anyone. He can still sound like a dour smart-arse, but he’s being doing it for so long it’s really quite endearing.