Built on an inverted forest, paved with a tortoiseshell of boulders, Venice is a maze of tiny alleys, bridges and squares. Tiziano Scarpa wanders through the city, recounting the customs and secrets that only Venetians know.

Beware the buckets on the Zattare in springtime: the cuttlefish inside will squirt ink on your shoes, men must be prepared to carry their consorts at high tide, all must be able to make the sign of the devil with their toes and no one should leave without playing the well curbed that sounds like a steel drum in San Silvestro.

With everything from practical advice for aspiring Venetian lovers to hints at where to find the best bacaro, Scarpa waves the tourist in the right direction and, without naming a single restaurant, hotel or bar, relates the secret language needed to experience the real Venice.

So ignore the street signs - why fight the labyrinth? Venice: the fish, is ready to swallow you whole.